“I’ll Have What She’s Having”: The Jewish Deli at New-York Historical Society, through April 2, 2023

“New-York Historical Society presents ‘I’ll Have What She’s Having’: The Jewish Deli, a fascinating exploration of the rich history of the Jewish immigrant experience that made the delicatessen so integral to New York culture. On view November 11, 2022 – April 2, 2023, the exhibition, organized by the Skirball Cultural Center in Los Angeles, where it is on view through September 18, examines how Jewish immigrants, mostly from Central and Eastern Europe, imported and adapted traditions to create a cuisine that became a cornerstone of popular culture with worldwide influence. The exhibition explores the food of immigrants; the heyday of the deli in the interwar period; delis in the New York Theater District; stories of Holocaust survivors and war refugees who found community in delis; the shifting and shrinking landscapes of delis across the country; and delis in popular culture. On display are neon signs, menus, advertisements, and deli workers’ uniforms alongside film clips and video documentaries. New-York Historical’s expanded presentation includes additional artwork, artifacts, photographs of local establishments, and objects from deli owners, as well as costumes from The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, a mouthwatering interactive, and a Bloomberg Connects audio tour.” — New-York Historical Society

“Whether you grew up eating matzoball soup or are learning about lox for the first time, this exhibition demonstrates how Jewish food became a cultural touchstone, familiar to Americans across ethnic backgrounds,” said co-curators Cate Thurston and Laura Mart. “This exhibition reveals facets of the lives of Central and Eastern European Jewish immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries that echo in contemporary immigrant experiences. It shows how people adapt and transform their own cultural traditions over time, resulting in a living style of cooking, eating, and sharing community that is at once deeply rooted in their own heritage and continuously changing.”

James Reuel Smith (1852–1935.) Louis Klepper Confectionary and Sausage Manufacturers, 45 E. Houston Street, c. 1900. Patricia D. Klingenstein Library, New-York Historical Society. Courtesy New-York Historical Society.
Installation view of “I’ll Have What She’s Having” at New-York Historical Society. Photo: Corrado Serra.
Hester Street, Lower East Side, c. 1900. Postcard. Patricia D. Klingenstein Library, New-York Historical Society. Courtesy New-York Historical Society.
Installation view of “I’ll Have What She’s Having” at New-York Historical Society. Photo : Corrado Serra.
Installation view of “I’ll Have What She’s Having” at New-York Historical Society. Photo: Corrado Serra.
Snack at Manny’s Delicatessen, Chicago, IL, 2010. Image Professionals GmbH / Alamy Stock Photo. Courtesy New-York Historical Society. 
Installation view of “I’ll Have What She’s Having” at New-York Historical Society. Photo: Corrado Serra.
Installation view of “I’ll Have What She’s Having” at New-York Historical Society. Photo: Corrado Serra.
Installation view of “I’ll Have What She’s Having” at New-York Historical Society. Photo: Corrado Serra.
Carnegie Deli, New York, NY, 2008. Photo by Ei Katsumata /Alamy Stock Photo. Courtesy New-York Historical Society.

“I’ll Have What She’s Having” is co-curated by Skirball curators Cate Thurston and Laura Mart along with Lara Rabinovitch. It was coordinated at New-York Historical by Cristian Petru Panaite with Marilyn Kushner, curator and head, Department of Prints, Photographs, and Architectural Collections.