“Featuring creative and alternative approaches to confronting textile industry waste, “Scraps: Fashion, Textiles and Creative Reuse” presents the work of three designers who put sustainability at the heart of the design process. Highlighting contemporary design that embraces the tradition of using handcraft to give new life to scraps and cast-offs, the exhibition showcases work by Luisa Cevese, founder of Milan based design studio Riedizioni; Christina Kim, founder of Los Angeles-based brand dosa; and Reiko Sudo, cofounder of Toyko textile design firm Nuno.
Through more than 40 works, the exhibition explores key facets of sustainability, such as the efficient use of materials and resources, the preservation of local craft traditions and the integration of new technologies in the recycling process. Works on view include tabletop accessories and handbags refashioned from silk selvage scraps by Cevese, appliquéd panels produced from recycled jamdani saris by Kim, and a variety of fabrics woven from kibiso, a luxury fiber Sudo developed using discarded parts of the silk cocoon.” — Cooper Hewitt
Installation view of “Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and Creative Reuse.” Photo by Matt Flynn © 2016. Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum.
Installation view of “Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and Creative Reuse.” Photo by Matt Flynn © 2016. Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum.
Installation view of “Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and Creative Reuse.” Photo by Matt Flynn © 2016. Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum.
Installation view of “Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and Creative Reuse.” Photo by Matt Flynn © 2016. Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum.
Installation view of “Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and Creative Reuse.” Photo by Matt Flynn © 2016. Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum.
Installation view of “Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and Creative Reuse.” Photo by Matt Flynn © 2016. Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum.
Installation view of “Scraps: Fashion, Textiles, and Creative Reuse.” Photo by Matt Flynn © 2016. Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum.
Preparing selvedges from Hosoo brocaded silk and metallic fabrics. Photo: © Luisa Cevese Riedizioni.
Slit silver-leafed washi paper for use as wefts for weaving; Courtesy of Hosoo Co. Ltd. Photo: © Luisa Cevese Riedizioni.
Very small traveling bag, 2015, designed 2012. Designed by Luisa Cevese (Italian, b. 1955), produced by Riedizioni (Milan, Italy).
Basket bag, 2015, designed 1996. Designed by Luisa Cevese (Italian, b. 1955), produced by Riedizioni (Milan, Italy).
Luisa Cevese working on “Spread Threads” mat. Photo: © Luisa Cevese Riedizioni.
Appliquè artisans laying out jamdani scraps on a base panel, Gujarat, India, 2007.
Recycled Jamdani panel, 2008; Designed by Christina Kim (American b. South Korea, 1957), produced by dosa (Los Angeles, California), embroidered by Rajka Designs (Gujarat, India), beaded by Devi Export (India); appliquèd and embroidered cotton with brocading, glass beads; Gift of Christina Kim and dosa inc., 2016-6-1; Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, Photo © dosa inc.
Eungie skirt, 2008 collection. Designed by Christina Kim (American b. South Korea 1957), produced by dosa inc. (Los Angeles, California).
Geeís tikdi textile (detail), 2009. Designed by Christina Kim (American b. South Korea 1957), produced by dosa inc. (Los Angeles, California).
Weaving waraji sandals with kibiso, Shonai Tagawa, JA Fujishima Branch (Yamagata, Japan). © Rhizomatiks.
Waraji sandals, 2015; Woven by Shonai Tagawa, JA. Fujishima Branch (Yamagata, Japan); kibiso. © Rhizomatiks.
Ogarami choshi panel, 2016; Designed by Reiko Sudo and Tsuruoka Fabric Industry Cooperative; Peeled ogarami choshi, self-adhered by re- wetting sericin; 300 × 120 cm (9 ft. 10 ⅛ in. × 47 ¼ in.); Courtesy of Reiko Sudo and Tsuruoka Fabric Industry Cooperative. Photo: Matt Flynn © Smithsonian Insitution.
Kibiso Tsugihagi, 2016; Designed by Reiko Sudo (Japanese, b. 1953), manufactured by NUNO Corporation (Tokyo, Japan); kibiso remnants machine-embroidered to a water-soluble base, base dissolved; Photo: Sue McNab.
Textile, Futsu Crisscross, 2009. Designed by Reiko Sudo (Japanese, b. 1953), manufactured by Nuno Corp. (Tokyo, Japan). 62% silk (raw silk and kibiso), 38% cotton.
Textile, Itomaki Kibiso, 2009. Designed by Reiko Sudo (Japanese, b. 1953), manufactured by Nuno Corp. (Tokyo, Japan). 100% silk (raw silk and kibiso).
“Scraps” is organizedby Matilda McQuaid, deputy director of curatorial and head of textiles and Susan Brown, associate curator of textiles.
Images courtesy Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum.